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Walking in Andalucia. |
Welcome to the Costa del Sol,Andalucia, and the European capital for sand, sea and summer holiday bliss. Traditionally associated with coastal tourism of mass proportions, the Costa del Sol is now uncovering its real potential for nature lovers and walkers discovering its remarkable diversity and unexpected, magical surprises. In fact, in only 5 short years there has been a dramatic rise in not only foreigners penetrating the beautiful coastal mountains in search of walking opportunities but the local government itself has awoken to the benefits of encouraging this activity as well. Malaga, Cadiz and Granada provinces have made giant strides in the design, implementation and maintenance of walking trails throughout their provinces. Areas such as Nerja, Torremolinos, Mijas, Marbella, Estepona and Tarifa all provide an abundance of fine walks within short reach of the coast. Just inland, the gorgeous white villages and their charming drover trails and smuggler routes are also being uncovered by an increasing amount of walkers. Walking in Andalucia you can stroll through pretty meadows of wildflowers, tip toe along Roman cobbles, scramble up craggy ridgelines, cross streams flanked by semi tropical vegetation, ascend deep gorges and even climb peaks over 1400 m only minutes from the beach! On hotter days one can swim in crystal clear pools under waterfalls or follow mystical paths winding through the shade of ancient cork and olive trees. Walking in Andalucia even during the winter months will open one's eyes to the wonders of the region offering brilliant sunshine and amazingly clear days.
So why not make the most of your visit to the Costa del Sol region by exploring its magical mysteries on foot. As a taster, sample the route below. Enjoy walking in Andalucia and see you on the trail!
---------------------------------------------Walking in Andalucia;Trail Name: Manilva - The Walk of the Roman Baths Grade: Easy/Moderate Distance: 12 km Region: Costa del Sol West - Malaga Province Time: 4 hours
Start & Finish:
Manilva Bus stop (in front of local police station), finish at bus stop if walking return or taking bus back from Casares.
Getting There:
By car follow the N340 west 10 km from Estepona to the sprawling seaside town of Sabanillas. Turn right at the roundabout/Campsa filling station and Manilva is the first village a few km up this road. Three buses a day go to/from Estepona to Carares via Manilva. Bus schedules are subject to change but most tourist offices have updated timetables for the journey. Upon reaching the village watch for the small local Police headquarters on the right and the bus stop at the intersection on the left.
Walking in Andalucia Checklist:
Walking boots, bus timetable, bus money, picnic, water, swimming costume, camera
Notes:
Major roadwork is on route just below Manilva as you approach the Roman Baths area and more development is about to begin at the edge of the river section. If confused down there, just keep to the river and you'll have no problems.
Walking in Andalucia Trail Summary:
Legend tells that the Romans and Caesar himself used the sulfur rich baths along this rustic and diverse route. Also known as the camino antiquo (old road) connecting Manilva to Casares, this route sees little human traffic overall except around the Roman Baths area so make an early start to avoid the crowds. Much of the route is on track with plenty of path sections, stream crossings and lush vegetation. Keep an eye out for the yellow and white trail markers (either a post or paint on boulders).
Walking in Andalucia Trail Description:
1. Leave the bus stop and enter the palm tree lined one-way promenade that leads to Manilva's main square (3 mins). Pass the Unicaja Bank on the right and exit the square by continuing straight (following the lane to your right). As the lane ends (5 mins) look straight across the junction for a wooden arrow sign indicating "Casares 3hr" and a small lane that drops off to the right. The journey out of the village begins here.
2. Follow the cement track down through grape vineyards and be sure to take in the stunning views of Mount Reales to the east and the extensive coastline below. Casares appears in the distance to the left as a cluster of white geometric shapes tucked snuggly into craggy features.
3. Arriving at the bottom of the descent (30 mins) take a left on the wider paved road crossing under the new sci-fi like motorway bridge then pick up the gravel track along the left side of the river. Continue along track past a small white, chapel then after about 150 m drop down path to the Roman Bath ruins - an odd looking white dome encased by walls (45 mins). Enter the structure and peak into the cave where the bathing is done (highly recommended!).
Note - there is talk of commercial development about to begin on this highly important historic site. If you have a chance to experience the cool healing waters of the baths then do so now while they are free and natural.
4. Exit the baths by crossing the sulfur creek then continue on path through a meadow until it again crosses a creek bed with (occasional) stagnant water. If the creek is too high climb the path to your left that leads up to the track (25 m). Go right on the track watching for the wooden trail marker to your left. Follow path leading left from track then dropping down at a complex of residential buildings with green windows. Look for a large grinding stone at the corner of the pool. This marks the continuation of the path.
If the water is low and you are coming up the scenic creek bed you will arrive at the same complex. Simply walk along the row of buildings keeping the river to your right and you will arrive at the grinding stone.
5. Follow the lovely path along the river's left bank passing by old farmhouse then tackling a tricky section of boulders (1 hr). Eventually you'll arrive in a pretty meadow with a large watermill ruin at the opposite end (1 hr 10 min). Climb up to the back of the mill via the left side and have a peak down into the ruins! The path then leads into the forest by following the irrigation channel - ducking under low branches until it finally drops down to a lovely meadow marked by a cluster of giant eucalyptus trees (1 hr 25 min).
6. Careful here! Beyond the eucalyptus trees a thin path angling toward the river finds its way (after 100 m or so), to an unmarked crossing area. At time of writing no markers were present here but simply make the crossing aiming for a small sheltered open area with a large carob tree (boulder in its roots), just up on the right. A clear goat track leaves the clearing on the left side. Avoid this and climb slightly to the right, behind the carob tree and follow the path as it winds left and crosses a worn animal track (ascending steeply). Stay straight on the rustic path climbing gently with the stream now dropping to your left.
7. Have a peak down the left bank at the water pools below. Keep climbing the single path and you'll soon be above the gorge where exotic rock features are found across on your left (1 hr 50 min).
8. Leave the gorge area and follow same path along an open area towards a metal fence and gate where a ruin lay on the other side (2 hr).
9. Pass by ruin meeting a track and go right here (note pretty homes on left!). When you arrive at a horse stable head for the double wide steel fence in opposite left corner (2 hr 10 min).
10. Pass through fence and head up towards farmhouse. About 100 m before farm note posts on right indicating a track. Take track leading to a green gate and pass through. Follow path over grazing land to another gate in opposite corner of field (2 hr 20 min).
11. Pass through gate and stay straight on track. It climbs gently for a few hundred meters then switchbacks down to the river level and an old wire gate. Pass through gate and walk along creek about 100 m to where the path ends - cross over stones here and head to the large ruined watermill on opposite side (2 hr 45 min).
Watermills such as these were once the mainstay of the agricultural community. No longer used (except for charming guest houses at times!), you can still have a nose around and attempt to reconstruct how it all worked!
12. Leave the watermill and head back to the creek and cross again over a few boulders (just before a small dam structure).
13. Once across, head up the path - picking up a fence line and follow this pretty trail until you arrive at a beautiful red / white farmhouse with water funneling from it (3 hrs). This is a classic, modernized watermill - now used as a guesthouse.
14. Just beyond the farmhouse take the small footbridge over the creek and stay left on a gravel drive leading out (50 m), to a main gravel track.
15. Go right on the gravel track (flanked by fences) and begin the final ascent to the village of Casares. This is a beautiful climb and there are no real sidetracks to confuse you! The area you are walking through is known as Los Molinos and it has a reputation for containing plenty of ground water - a rare luxury in Spain!
16. Just below Casares you'll arrive at an odd, oval shaped edifice and bits of building rubbish around it (3 hrs 30 min). This is actually the new village cemetery! Carry on up the steep main track through some tortured rock cuts until you arrive at a parking area with a massive cave on the left. Keep on climbing until you hit the first street, Calle Juan Ceron. The main plaza (and a few decent local pubs!) is about 400 km up this street (3 hrs 45 min).
Walking in Andalucia Places of Interest:
Casares village itself and its Castle area and museum up at the top are worth a visit.
Note: This article has been adapted from the book by Matt Butler which offers much information on walking in Andalucia from the Costa del Sol.
"Holiday Walks from The Costa del Sol." For anyone interested in walking in Andalucia you may also find this a useful book Walking In Andalucia, the Best Walks in Southern Spain's Natural Parks by Guy Hunter- Watts.
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