Jerez de la Frontera
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"If I had a thousand sons, the first human principle I would teach them would be to forswear thin potations and dedicate themselves to Sherry"
Shakespeare; Henry V, part II
Jerez de la Frontera (prononced hereth,) is the Andalusian town from which the name Sherry is derived.
Along with two other nearby towns, El Puerto de Santa Maria and Sanlucar de Barrameda, it is the only place in the world where sherry is produced. There is not a great deal of difference between the wines of Jerez and those of El Puerto, although the latter town does tend to be particularly noted for its' amontillados and finos. Sanlucar on the other hand produces an entirely different wine as all the manzanilla, with its’ distinctive, fresh flavour, is produced here.
Built on this bedrock of sherry and brandy production, Jerez has long been amongst Spain's most commercially successful towns.The old Anlo-Andaluz sherry dynasties still wield much social and economic power here. The promotional slogan for the town is "Jerez-Pura Andalucia" which embodies the idealised images of this region such as rich land barons, grand palaces and large estates, finely bred horses and fighting bulls,lively and passionate flamenco, beautiful women and handsome men and of course much flowing wine.
A visit to Jerez de la Frontera has much to commend it as there is much to see and do.First on most people's agenda of course is a tour of one, or perhaps more,of the bodegas. Here you can see sherry in production and get to sample it too. I have put a list of some of the most important bodegas along with their tour details at the bottom of the page.Another essential visit is to the Real Escuela Andaluza del Arte Ecuestra,or the school of equestrian art.On most days it is possible to see here the stables, a wonderful collection of carriages and training sessions. On Thursdays a fascinating and perfected performance is given of an equestrian ballet. This fabulous spectacle is set to Spanish music and performed in 17th. Century costumes.
Also to be included in your itinerary is a visit to the Museo de Relojes.It houses one of Europe's most varied and interesting collections of working time pieces,a total of 300 in all, dating from the 17th. to the 19th. Centuries.
There are two events year which make a visit to this Andalucian town extra special, the first takes place in May when the annual Jerez Horse Fair takes place. This marvelous spectacle is one of Spain's oldest fairs and in the middle ages attracted traders from all over Europe. Traditionally the sale of a horse is confirmed when the purchaser takes hold of the reins, so be careful!!
The second event, Fiestas de Otoño, is, along with the May Feria de Caballo, the biggest celebration of the year in Jerez. Starting at the end of September, and continuing into October, the Fiestas include the veneration of the Patroness, the Virgen de la Merced (24th September), and the celebrations of the grape harvest, which includes the Treading of the Grapes and theBlessing of the Must (the first wine of the year).
| To learn more about the history of Sherry Production in Jerez read this excellent book by Julian Jeffs.
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So if you are holidaying in Andalucia then a trip to Jerez will certainly add much to your trip, particularly if you are there in May or Sept./Oct.
List of Wine Bodegas and their tour timetables.
Gonzalez Byass (C Manuel Maria Gonzalez, Jerez; 00 34 956 357 016, www.gonzalezbyass.es) This is the largest of the city’s bodegas and has an impressive dome designed by Gustav Eiffel. From March to September, tours take place Mon-Sat 9.30am-1pm & 5-7pm, and 9.30am-1pm on Sundays. The cost is €7. For the rest of the year, ring the bodega for information and bookings.
Pedro Domecq(C San Ildefonso 3, Jerez; 0034 956 151 500, www.domecq-usa.com)A large bodega originally founded in 1730, and famed for its rounded arches. Tours with a tasting run Mon-Fri on the hour between 10am and 1pm, and on Saturdays at 12pm. A tasting with tapas is also available on some days. Cost from €5.
Williams and Humbert.(Carretera NIV, Jerez; 00 34 956 353 406, www.williams-humbert.com)At 180,000 square metres, this is the largest bodega in Europe. Along with 60,000 butts of Sherry, it has a horse show (booking in advance required) and a Sherry museum. Daily visits, including a tour of the gardens and stables, are available at 12.00pm and 1pm.
Sandeman.(C Pizzaro 10, Jerez; 00 34 956 151 700, www.sandeman.com)Founded by George Sandeman in 1790, this is one of the most famous names in Sherry and Port. The visitor centre in the heart of Jerez offers several different tours, including the ‘1790 tour’, which includes the chance to sample rare 20-year-old Sandeman Sherries. Book in advance.
Garvey.(Carretera de Circunvalaciòn, Complejo Bellavista, Jerez; 00 34 956 319 650, www.grupogarvey.com) One of the smaller bodegas. Visits run from Monday to Friday (9am to 3pm) with an appointment needed in the afternoon. Tours are available in both English and Spanish, and cost €3. The site also features an excellent wine label museum with over 15,000 Sherry labels, including designs by Miro and Goya.
Emilio Lustau.(C Arcos 53, Jerez; 00 34 956 341 597, www.emilio-lustau.com) This small bodega offers visits with a Sherry tasting conducted in Spanish and English by prior appointment, at a charge of €6 per person (€5 for groups of 15 or more).
